Col GKS Reddy Coins: VISIT TO INDIA - TELANGANA STATE - HYDERABAD CITY - GOLCONDA FORT

CHAPPIDI ABHIRATH REDDY,
C/O COL GKS REDDY,

Secunderabad - 500 015.

I, along with some friends visited Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, on 06 Oct 2014 and it was an exciting experience, to go through what remains of the Ruins, after the damage sustained by the Fort during the seize of the by Mughul Emperor Aurangzeb and subsequent fighting that reportedly continued for eleven months, before the Fort was over powered and captured in the year 1687. Photographs in the blog have been taken by Mr Srinivasa Reddy, a friend of mine

Hyderabad City

Hyderabad (ⁱ/ˈ h aɪ d ər ə ˌ b æ d/ hy-dər-ə-bad; often /ˈ h aɪ d r ə ˌ b æ d/) is the fourth largest city in India and capital city of the Indian state of Telangana in South India. Currently, Hyderabad is also the capital city for Andhra Pradesh, as per the Andhra Pradesh Reorganisation Act, 2014, an arrangement that is scheduled to last for a maximum of ten years. Hyderabad occupies 650 square kilometres (250 sq mi), along the banks of the Musi River a tributary of Krishna River, it has a population of about 6.8 million and ametropolitan population of about 7.75 million, making it the fourth most populous city and sixth most populous urban agglomeration in India. A Survey by Telangana State Government, 'Samagra kutumba survey' on August 19, 2014, reveals that Hyderabad's population has crossed 12 million. At an average altitude of 542 metres (1,778 ft), much of Hyderabad is situated on hilly terrain around artificial lakes, including Hussain Sagar—predating the city's founding—north of the then city centre.

Established in 1591 by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, Hyderabad remained under the rule of the Qutb Shahi dynasty for nearly a century before the Mughals captured the region. In 1724, Mughal viceroy Asif Jah I declared his sovereignty and created his own dynasty, also known as the Nizams of Hyderabad. The Hyderabad State ultimately became a princely state during British rule, and remained so for 150 years, with the city serving as its capital. The city continued as capital of a new Hyderabad State after the Nizam acceded to the Indian Union in 1948. In 1956, it became the capital of Andhra Pradesh, formed by merging Telangana region of Hyderabad State with the Telugu-speaking Andhra State. In June 2014, after Telangana state was carved out of Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad became part of Telangana state and the joint capital of both states. Relics of Qutb Shahi and Nizam rule remain visible today, with the Charminar—commissioned by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah himself—coming to symbolise Hyderabad. Golconda fort is also a major landmark of Hyderabad. That legacy is also evident in the city's distinctive cuisine, which includes Hyderabadi biriyani and Hyderabadi haleem. The Qutb Shahis and Nizams established Hyderabad as a cultural hub, attracting men of letters from different parts of the world. Hyderabad emerged as the foremost centre of culture in India with the decline of the Mughal Empire in the mid-19th century, with artists migrating to the city from the rest of the Indian subcontinent. While Hyderabad is losing its cultural pre-eminence, it is today, due to the Telugu film industry, the country's second-largest producer of motion pictures.

Hyderabad was historically known as a pearl and diamond trading centre, and it continues to be known as the City of Pearls. Many of the city's traditional bazaars, including Laad Bazaar, Begum Bazaar and Sultan Bazaar, have remained open for centuries. However, industrialisation throughout the 20th century has also attracted major Indian manufacturing, research and financial institutions, including the Bharat Heavy Electricals Limited, National Geophysical Research Institute and the Centre for Cellular and Molecular Biology. Special economic zones dedicated to information technology have encouraged companies from across India and around the world to set up operations and the emergence of pharmaceutical and biotechnology industries in the 1990s led to the title of Genome Valley. With an output of US$74 billion, Hyderabad is the fifth-largest contributor to India's overallgross domestic product.

Golconda Fort

Introduction

Golconda, also known as Golkonda or Golla konda ("shepherd's hill"), a ruined fort of Southern India and capital of medieval Golconda Sultanate (c.1518–1687), is situated 11 km west of Hyderabad. It is also a mandal of Hyderabad District. The region is universally famous for the mines that have produced the world's most famous and coveted gems, including the Hope Diamond, The Eye of the Idol (aka the Nassak Diamond).

History

The Golconda fort was first built by Kakatiya as part of their western defenses. It was built in 945 CE-970 CE on the lines of the Kondapalli fort. The city and fortress are built on a granite hill that is 120 meters (400 ft) high and is surrounded by massivecrenelated ramparts. The fort was rebuilt and strengthened by Pratapa Rudra of Kakatiya dynasty. The fort was further strengthened by Musunuri Nayaks who overthrew the Tughlak army occupying Warangal. The fort was ceded by the Musunuri chief, Kapaya Nayaka to the Bahmanis as part of the treaty in 1364 AD. The fort became the capital of a major province in the Sultanate and after its collapse the capital of the Qutb Shahi kings. The fort finally fell into ruins after a siege and its fall to Mughal emperorAurangazeb in 1687 AD.

After the collapse of the Bahmani Sultanate, Golkonda rose to prominence as the seat of the Qutb Shahi dynasty around 1507. Over a period of 62 years the mud fort was expanded by the first three Qutb Shahi kings into a massive fort of granite, extending around 5 km incircumference. It remained the capital of the Qutb Shahi dynasty until 1590 when the capital was shifted to Hyderabad. The Qutb Shahis expanded the fort, whose 7 km outer wall enclosed the city. The state became a focal point for Shia Islam in India, for instance, in the 17th century, Bahraini clerics, Sheikh Ja`far bin Kamal al-Din and Sheikh Salih Al-Karzakani both emigrated to Golkonda.

The Fort (Golconda)

Golkonda consists of four distinct forts with a 10 km long outer wall with 87 semicircular bastions (some still mounted with cannons), eight gateways, and four drawbridges, with a number of royal apartments & halls, temples, mosques, magazines, stables, etc. inside. The lowest of these is the outermost enclosure into which we enter by the "Fateh Darwaza" (Victory gate, so called after Aurangzeb’s triumphant army marched in through this gate) studded with giant iron spikes (to prevent elephants from battering them down) near the south-eastern corner. At Fateh Darwaza can be experienced a fantastic acoustic effect, characteristic of the engineering marvels at Golkonda. A hand clap at a certain point below the dome at the entrance reverberates and can be heard clearly at the 'Bala Hisar' pavilion, the highest point almost a kilometre away. This worked as a warning note to the royals in case of an attack.

The whole of the Golkonda Fort complex and its surrounding spreads across 11 km of total area, and discovering its every nook is an arduous task. A visit to the fort reveals the architectural beauty in many of the pavilions, gates, entrances and domes. Divided into four district forts, the architectural valour still gleams in each of the apartments, halls, temples, mosques, and even stables. The graceful gardens of the fort may have lost their fragrance, for which they were known 400 years ago, yet a walk in these former gardens should be in your schedule when exploring the past glories of Golkonda Fort.

Bala Hissar Gate is the main entrance to the fort located on the eastern side. It has a pointed arch bordered by rows of scroll work. The spandrels have yalis and decorated roundels. The area above the door has peacocks with ornate tails flanking an ornamental arched niche. The granite block lintel below has sculpted yalis flanking a disc. The design of peacocks and lions is a blend of Hindu – Muslim architecture.

Toli Masjid, situated at Karwan, about 2 km from the Golkonda fort, was built in 1671 by Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar, royal architect of Abdullah Qutb Shah. The facade consists of five arches, each with lotus medallions in the spandrels. The central arch is slightly wider and more ornate. The mosque inside is divided into two halls, a transverse outer hall and an inner hall entered through triple arches.

Much thought went into building this gate. A few feet in front of the gate is a large wall. This prevented elephants and soldiers (during enemy attacks) from having a proper ramp to run and break the gate.

The fort of Golkonda is known for its magical acoustic system. The highest point of the fort is the "Bala Hissar", which is located a kilometer away. The palaces, factories, water supply system and the famous "Rahban" cannon, within the fort are some of the major attractions.

It is believed that there is a secret underground tunnel that leads from the "Durbar Hall" and ends in one of the palaces at the foot of the hill. The fort also contains the tombs of the Qutub Shahi kings. These tombs have Islamic architecture and are located about 1 km north of the outer wall of Golkonda. They are encircled by beautiful gardens and numerous exquisitely carved stones. It is also believed that there was a secret tunnel to Charminar.

The two individual pavilions on the outer side of Golkonda are also major attractions of the fort. It is built on a point which is quite rocky. The "Kala Mandir" is also located in the fort. It can be seen from the king's durbar (king's court) which was on top of the Golkonda Fort.

The other buildings found inside the fort are :

Habshi Kamans (Abyssian arches), Ashlah Khana, Taramati mosque, Ramadas Bandikhana, Camel stable, private chambers (kilwat), Mortuary bath, Nagina bagh, Ramasasa's kotha, Durbar hall, Ambar khana etc.

This majestic structure has beautiful palaces and an ingenious water supply system. Sadly, the unique architecture of the fort is now losing its charm.

The ventilation of the fort is absolutely fabulous having exotic designs. They were so intricately designed that cool breeze could reach the interiors of the fort, providing a respite from the heat of summer.

The Huge gates of the fort are decorated with large pointed iron spikes. These spikes prevented Elephants from damaging the fort. The fort of Golkonda is encircled by an 11-km-long outer wall. This was built in order to fortify the fort.

The Pavilions Outside Bala Hissar Gate

Just outside Bala Hissar Gate ( About 50 metres away), are located two imposing pavilions, on either side of the road leading to the Gate

The Northern Pvillion, just outside the Bala Hissar Gate,

the Main Eastern Entrance to Golconda Fort

The Southern Pavilion, outside Bala Hissar Gate

The Bala Hissar Gate in the Background, with Huge Wall in front,

to prevent the enemy from rushing the Gate

Another view of the Bala Hissar Gate and the Protective Defence Wall i Front

A view of Bala Hissar Gate from across the Protective Defence Wall

Signalling Device

Generally known as clapping Portico, This structure which is the rear portion of Bala Hissar Gate, is marked by high raised ceiling and arched openings, it works as a signalling device to communicate (Alert) with the persons located at the Baradari (Darbar Hall), about a kilometre away and not in the line of sight.

Signalling Device located on the roof of Clapping Portico

Another view of the signalling device

A panoramic view of the Central Fort Wall and structures, from the lawn

just behind Bala Hissar Gate. The Fort has three tiers of Defence walls,

Outer, Central and the Inner Fort Walls. Bala Hissar Gate is the entrance

through the Outer Fort Wall

Another view of the Central Fort Wall and structures

AsLah Khana

One of the Imposing Structures of Bala Hissar, this three storied structure consists, a row of Arches in each floor, marked by a large hall and perhaps, it was used as a Magazine to store weapons and Ammunition. It was constructed in 16 th Century AD

A view of Aslah Khana - The Armoury of the Fort

Another view of Aslah Khana

Nakkar Khana

The remains of this place, comprise a mini complex of palatial buildings with courtyards and different chambers. Recent excavations at this place have brought to light, the remains of a main junction connected by different drain water channels.

A view of Nakkar Khana and the Structures

Another view of Nakkar Khana from a different angle

Taramati Mosque

This beautiful Mosque known as Taramati’s Mosque, is a good example of Qutub Shahi Architecture. It is marked by three arches, with the central being larger than the rest. The Parapet wall with a Chhajja of the Hindu Architectural pattern is embellished by square openings

A view of Taramati Mosque

The rear view of Aslah Khana from the lawns (previously Beautiful Gardens)

located in front of the Rani Mahal Complex

Rani Mahal Complex

This Multi Storied complex in the Balahissar is the largest one comprising many buildings, chambers and structures of different nature, built during different phases of Qutub Shahi Rule.